We offer a door trimming and planing service in Warwick, Leamington Spa, Kenilworth, Coventry and the surrounding towns and villages. If you need door trimming or planing because you have had new carpets fitted then we can help.
Doors often get stuck on the deeper pile of a new carpet and need to be trimmed to fit.
Please give us a call to book your appointment. 01926 754 072
I’m going to show you the process, I’ve gone through to rehang the door and it’s a little bit more tricky than you’d, normally think because I’ve narrowed the doorway slightly and like everything in this house, the doorway is massively Off square, so I’m gonna have a little bit of trimming to do hinge, adjustments and really / the door furch and that sort of thing, for those of you kind subscribers who follow my videos regularly you’ll see that the carpet has now been Installed in the spare room, all the paintings been done, a knock at door.
Lining that’s been featuring in various recent videos has been filled and painted with a couple of plates of primarily a couple of coats of eggshell top coat. So this is the door you’ll see. It’S sitting at a mad angle in relation to the door frame, because it’s got a very weird cutout on the most of the door, because this is not Victorian cottage and I don’t think this door frame is particularly square saying. The door itself has been cut down over the years, saying that it fits into the doorway. The first ever do is remove this disgusting dated well, some of you might quite like it 1970s door, furniture you’re thinking of buying power tool.
You might consider one of these from Raabe. I use this tool more often actually bought it, because I was doing a job for clients in Switzerland a couple years ago. So I need to suddenly really need to put my hand luggage, and I also bought this at the time, so a real shame that Ryobi don’t seem to stock it at the moment. I think I bought it at being at the same time as I bought the drill for the same reason and just check this out. I have replaced a few of the components over the years, but it’s just a lovely little tool belt little ports. We’Ll talk about that has most of the screwdriver bits that you’d need on a regular basis. You’Ve got the HSS drill, bits, wood drill, bits, a couple of masonry drill, bits: you’ve got nut drivers, pH ones, twos or threes, peasy, twos and threes, various sizes of TX cream it.
But the reason I’m showing you this is because, right now I need probably this one, a sr5. Now you may be able to lift this door prxima into position seal or quite off cutting down. Today. I basically got about 80 ml to take off the door and what I’m going to do is I’m going to take off both sides of the door. So I end up with two nice planed edges on each side of the door. Normally I’m doing my cutting and sending outside, but as a weathers foul at the moment, I’m going to do it in here say what world sort my stanley sawhorses up, literally just going to use the top to do my cutting. That is why sawhorses a brilliant, even if you don’t convert them into a portable workshop table like I did a couple of weeks ago – right switch the lights out, and I put my Dewar laser level in here.
Just to show you how mad this door frame is. Look how far out to square this door frame is 22 millimetres off square, so this has got what I got to put up with a hand factor into the adjustments to my door. Now I want to get this door to fit the old wonky framed snug as possible, even if that means adding bits to other parts of the door. So the first thing I need to do is take the incredibly uneven frame as I’m demonstrating now and reflecting that on the door using my sliding bevel taking the bevel here and basically marked on the door line. The bevel is showing and I’m doing exactly the same thing on this side. Let me just push the bevel up into the corner of the frame. Now, I’m just with a piece of wood, make sure the two lines meet up and Marty with a pencil. Now, normally, when I’m adjusting door friends I’d used my electric plane it’s a day,
I’m gon na show you our circular saw, can do a really good job on cutting down a door measuring the distance, from the blade to the guide as 28 mil, and then I’m Positioning my piece of wood 28, mph from the edge of the door and then making a type of one of these brilliant little clamps. I’Ve just bought from Axminster first, so I’ve done this. A lot of people will be watching this video think you know. If you had a Festool you’d have a proper fence. You have a proper tour guide, that’s all coming, I’m going to be making a guide soon and I’ll show you a video on that. But right now, I’m just using a good old piece of wood, I’m doing about the video soon on my circular saw, but for the sake of today’s video, a crucial thing you got to make sure when using one of these circular saws is that the blade goes Just down below surface you’re cutting, if you make it too you make it go down too far. You can find the blade wonders and that’s what I’m one of the first bought this. I actually bought this and then thought you don’t know what every time I use it, the blade wanders and I stop using it until a good friend of mine pointed out where I was going wrong. So I’m just pumping that down. So he goes so.
I’Ve got to sound pretty pleased with that. It’S cut a beautiful square line, no sign that the blade has wandered so I’ll, be using. This circular saw a lot more for this or that now the next step is to take five millimeters off the side of the door, to make it more in line with where it should be in the frame itself. This time, I’m going to use the little fence that comes with the circular saw, because I know that with the fence I’m going to get a brilliant, consistent cut, particularly given that I’m lining the fence up so close to the saw blade. So I’m just setting it. So that the saw is going to cut on the outer edge of that five millimeter line anyway, we go see, that’s the cut. I go a little bit of fine-tuning of the door state now. I know that this side of the door is square, so I’m gon na do my fine-tuning on the other angle and this time I’m going to use my wood plane measures, the door frame width for the top, the middle and the bottom. So I know exactly how wide the door should be if I’m also gon na, take five mil off that, so the door fits as it hinges into the frames I’ll then go a lot of straight piece of timber, that’s longer than the door itself, so I can Stretch it across the length and I’ve marked a line on the door showing my whoops remove. Now I just need to get planing [ Music ], unless you started with my plane on quite a deep setting to remove a fair amount of timber and as I get closer to the line, I can adjust the depth setting on the plane too much finer cut.
Just using this straightedge to check the door is nice and straight I’ve done a combination, square, pretty sure I’ve planed the door, nice and square. So the door now fits when I moved into the house. This door is a bit of a mess, and carpenters obviously put it in whether the floors have changed whether the walls have moved over the years, but I’ve got a thumping rapid gap at the top. Now I’m going to check when the hinges are in whether that’s because as the door opens, it hits the floor. But in the meantime I’ve got this handy little tool. I’M a prime piece of 4×2, which I actually made so that I could put it under plaster board and Jack last, brought up to the ceiling when I was dry lining. But I’m not going to use this to good effect on this door so and put the little jack underneath the door.
No I’ve got my foot on it and lift the door up and down the reason why that’s good is, I can now press down on than my little pivot, raising the door up to. I want it off the seat off the top of the door lining about there. Now I can mark my hinges, so I’ve got one hinge mark there. Now you can’t sit on the shop, I’m just marking the bottom hinge. I’Ve got mine just marked, so I can now get the bottom hinge marked off in exactly the right place. Check this out guys have just found another brilliant little use for these clamps clamping up the sawhorse to my door right. So you can see here the marks that I’ve made on the door a moment ago. Now I need to do is get my hinge, put it up against the marks and mark the position that I’ve got to rebait and then look at the things of the hinge.
I’M gon na do a rebate into the door off proximately, two millimeters, no I’m gon na do is I’m gon na mark this rebated section here with the chisel as well. It’S just splitting the paintwork, but what I want to do he’s got a nice neat line. These are some molded wooden doors, pretty nasty things really, so I have chipped the paint worker there, but what I will get as a consequence of doing this, there’s a nice neat line when I start to chisel out the top of the hinge spit labor-intensive this. If you make the effort at this stage, makes it so much easier to remove the rebate of section of him, I’m cutting it an angle: did you see, that’s encouraging the little leaves to lift up, and you only want to space about two to three millimeters apart, Because then, they really start to come away now, even just rubbing away at them makes them start to come away. I’M going to get through this hardboard front layer of the door because it’s bit problematic. Otherwise I often do this point. Is I just get my hinge and offer it up to see where the high points are [, Music, ] and then just drilling pilot holes? I always like Phillip eyelet hole into the actual hinge itself so that the screw doesn’t wander and throw the hinge out of position right.
The idea of hangar door can be pretty intimidating, but if you’ve lined up the hinges, as I showed you earlier on, it should just be a question once you’re ready to hang the door off getting in position and then putting the screws in place now. The way I get the door into position is by getting a block of wood underneath the door to exactly the right height so that you literally then just pivoting the door into place and then putting the screws in using that wedge. That I showed you yesterday is actually a really good tool for this because of the end on it. You can literally slide it up or down the door to get the door in exactly the right height rather than having to constantly offer up lots of different bits of wood. Now, once you’ve got a high height, simply question off swinging the door into place, I always put a middle screw in just to start with, and now I can work on. The bottom hinge at this point. I’M just lifting it away from the wedge. Look at that fits beautifully again, quick screw into the center hole and then that’s it, but for me the story doesn’t end that by a long way, because what I’ve got to do now with my uneven doorframes, you see it up, see words shutter, it would shut The toxic got a nice gap, but it doesn’t know the bottom so bringing the door to the frame and then I’m marking against the door. What I’ve got to remove.
So now it’s back to my electric plane to take off that thin sliver from the bottom of the door so that it can shut properly [ Music, ], [, Music ]. All data closes. Another remain to do now was to cut a piece of timber to go on the underside of the door to make up the gap that we’ve got, and I’ve done this by cuttings for a piece of 18 millimeter deep Plains: timber, [, Music ]. Now, with the Philippi someplace on the bottom of the door, I need to just replicate the bunkers angle of my floor, which, and there is 18 mil deeper in the center and taping back to 14 minute sides. Now that philippe’s has done the job beautifully, tuck up the door actually fits. I might just take a tiny bit more off. You can hear it just brushing against the carpet at the edges and then there’s just a little bit of edge and a little bit in the middle. Do I go overboard because I’ve already taken a little bit too much off the side of the door? When I did this, when I played the bottom of the door, I went a bit over the top with this plane and just caught. The the veneer on the front of this are the nasty miles of door. So I’m just using my trusty two-part filler to say they were the sort of gashes and you achieve a brilliant resulting using my views. My continental filler knife, which is a nice little tool, is not easy. Just use a standard decorator’s nice to do this, but the fellows knife just gives you a little bit more feel and touch you just get a nice slightly nicer job and as you’ll see from watching any of my videos on wood finning, the smoother the less residue. You can leave on the surface easier is to sound an off afterwards there. It is near the lights and 120 drain paper, ready for painting, i prime the entire door. Using my trusty John stones, John Krell, wood based primer under Kate, got ta say I do not enjoy painting I’m using for this acrylic durable eggshell from Johnsons.